Sunday, 15 November 2009

The 411 on Hip Designer John Galliano

I’ve done some research on one of my fave 80’s designers and here’s what I found out:

Galliano was born in Gibraltar, Spain in 1960 where he lived until he was six, his family then moved to south London. Galliano took a foundation course and then went on to study fashion design at Central St Martin’s. In his spare time Galliano was an assistant at Tommy Nutter’s studio on Savile Row where he perfected his cutting skills. He also worked as a part-time dresser at The National Theatre.

John Galliano graduated from Central St Martin’s in June 1984. His degree show, Les Incroyables, threw him into the spotlight. Inspired by the French Revolution, he produced jewellery made up from smashed magnifying glasses, romantic shirts, coats lined with brightly coloured ribbon and upside down and inside out jackets. Galliano’s collection caught the eye of Browns owner Joan Burnstein, who immediately brought the whole collection and showcased it in the window or her prestigious London boutique. The clothes were an instant hit; Galliano had to hunt the markets for fabrics and make up the clothes in his parents’ house to keep up with the demand.


Galliano showed his first runway collection at London Fashion Week in 1985. His Spring/Summer 1988 collection inspired by the film “A Streetcar Named Desire” scooped him the Designer of The Year Award, he went on to win this award a further three times. Despite the hype, two backers pulled out of the Galliano line, he couldn’t afford to show until 1992 when he moved his design studio and team to Paris.

In 1994 Galliano approached Anna Wintour and Andre Leon Talley to ask for financial backing. The 1994 Autumn/Winter show was Galliano’s first couture show. It consisted of 17 pieces all made from black silk as it was the only material he could afford. Modelled by the fashion elite such as Kate Moss, Christy Turlington and Naomi Campbell, the show was a critical and commercial success.

John Galliano is famous for his reinvention of the 1920’s bias cut. He refined and revived the bias-cut to make it current in the 1990’s. The cut of the fabric gives the dress elasticity and makes it cling to the body. Galliano believed his bias-cut slip dresses should be like a second skin on the wearer; this created a modern, sexy, streamlined silhouette.












In 1995, the chairman of luxury corporation LVMH, installed Galliano as head designer at Givenchy. Only a year later, fellow British designer Alexander McQueen took over at Givenchy, leaving Galliano to move on to LVMH’s biggest fashion house Dior. He designed all haute couture and ready to wear collections at Dior along with his own signature line.

Today, Galliano produces 17 collections a year, including, Dior haute couture, Dior and Galliano ready to wear, as well as shoes, bags, kids, men’s, watches and fine jewellery collections. He is renowned for his romantic and escapist visions which continue to enthral viewers every year.

1980s Fashion Influences

The 1980s gave women, and men, the opportunity to choose a look they felt comfortable with. The 80s saw the tailored look really evolve; it was impossible for many people to go anywhere without a jacket, or even a complete suit. The media was a huge influence at the time. Many people reminded of 1980s fashion influences and the media will instantly think of television programmes such as, Dallas and Dynasty.


When looking back at 80s fashion trends we often think of them as 80s fashion disasters. The thought of corporate business suits, Margret Thatcher styled evening suits, Diana Princess of Wales styled dressing and Yuppies all make our stomachs hurl. But that’s not to say that the 80s didn’t create inspiring silhouettes. Take the shoulder pad for example; a huge fashion trend in the 80s, then it went out of style and made most of us gasp in horror when we saw a picture of ourselves sporting massive shoulders, but now, 2009, the exaggerated shoulder look is back in fashion.
4 looks that are predominately associated with the fashions of the 80s are; New Romantics, stretch dressing, sportswear and power dressing. Accessorising their outfits was just as important to women; shawls, costume jewelery, clutch bags, hats, lace and patterned tights, and Doc Martins were some of the most popular accessorises for women to dress up their look.